Heading north from Wellington, through South Wairarapa, the journey itself sets the tone. We swept through the rolling beauty up north, over the gleaming new $900 million motorway, under wind turbines turning in the breeze, and down into Hiwinui. A spectacular drive up over the hill passing giant blades of renewable energy and farmers who have made fortunes owning the right piece of land, and farmers that must look up and wonder, why didn’t I buy that land when I had the chance?

Here, among some of New Zealand’s most picturesque, green, lush farmland, lies a truly extraordinary place—where sustainability meets heritage and hospitality meets heart.

Hiwinui is home to Dave Stewart and his warm family, a fifth-generation farmer who runs a productive dairy operation in partnership with Fonterra, one of 15,000 farmers nationwide.

But Dave is no ordinary landowner—because he doesn’t see himself as one. He calls himself a custodian of the land. That simple idea defines everything about this place. He cares for it, restores it, and nurtures it—not just for today, but for the generations that will follow. Buying up land like a passionate oil baron, he takes on debt and risk.

Throughout the valleys, he plants native trees—rimu, tōtara, and others—to create natural carbon sinks. Wetlands are being revived, landscapes rebalanced. The irony? New Zealand’s carbon credit scheme rewards pine plantations, but not native forests. “Go figure,” Dave says, as he keeps planting them anyway, winning awards and humbly accepting the accolades. His actions speak louder than policy. He’s farming with a future in mind, blending productivity with preservation in a way that’s rare—and inspiring.

📸 A Glimpse into Hiwinui – Click to View

At the centre of it all is Hiwinui Luxury Lodge—or Country Estate as they market it—managed by Dave’s daughter. It’s a jewel nestled beside a pristine lake, framed by endless green fields and accessible from five main cities. The lodge is as stylish as it is comfortable. A floor-to-ceiling, double-sided fireplace allowed us to dry our socks after strolling through wetlands that have been replanted with native trees. Elegant finishes and expansive views make every stay feel extraordinary.

Yet what truly sets it apart is how grounded the experience remains—luxury without pretension, beauty without excess, and the subtle extras were beyond expectations.

Hiwinui hosts a range of annual events, from corporate retreats to exclusive private stays. Global regular guests are welcomed not just with comfort, but with a connection to the land and a heritage of hard toil, and a respect for the family members that came before—and those young ones, family included, who are inspired to give farming a go. Dave Stewart is a creature: a deep thinker, hard worker, and a visionary. Dave took us for a tour, deep into the land’s story—from the milking sheds that power the operation to the hilltop monument honouring past generations. Every corner reveals care, passion, and pride.

At one point, the writer lost his phone up on a hill. We walked and backtracked, but we couldn’t find the bloody thing. I must say I felt relief not to have it. But Dave insisted we totally backtrack—and we found it, up on the monument hill. Dave was a truly compassionate man in this matter, which showed us a wonderful side of him.

We shared home-baked bread, meals, and stories that spanned decades and generations—about settlers from another world clearing the trees, cutting the soil, and working through exceedingly tough times. These days, Dave rides his Kubota! We watched the sun dip below the hills in a sunset for the ages while laughter echoed across the fireplace. The breaky was exquisite, the views unforgettable. More than once, we caught ourselves saying: this is an 11 out of 10.

Thanks to the new motorway, it’s easier than ever to reach this part of the country. Yet as soon as you arrive, you feel far from anything. Hiwinui is more than just a lodge or a farm—it’s an experience. A memory. A model of what modern New Zealand farming can be when heart, heritage, tourism, and sustainability align.

For anyone wanting to reconnect with the land, experience genuine Kiwi hospitality, or just breathe a little deeper, Hiwinui delivers beyond expectations. It’s stunning. It’s inspiring. It’s real.

By Graham Bloxham for Wellington Live